The Art of Shaving

Ah yes, the pleasure of waking up in the morning, already 30 minutes late for work. Slap some cheap shaving cream on your face, run a cold disposable razor over your dry skin and have at it!

Seconds later, you’re left with razor burn, a few cuts on your jaw line, and razor bumps covering your entire neck. Appealing, isn’t it? Regardless, this seems to be the way of modern man.

Fortunately, there’s a better way. Rather than hacking away at your beard to get through just another “chore” of the day, why not take some time to relax? Relax, you say? Surely, shaving is in no way a form of relaxation…

Well, that depends on how you look at it. Shaving used to be considered by many a technique – a tradition even – to be passed down from father to son over the years.

Today, however, men only seem to be interested in the shaving products that promise to deliver “quick and easy.” Yet, even with the best of technology and the million-dollar marketing campaigns, we’re left searching for something better. Maybe it’s time to learn a bit more about that tradition: the art of shaving.

Gear (5 Items)

Sure, some water and a razor get the job done. If you’re satisfied with “get the job done,” then this article isn’t for you. When you’re ready for a premium shave, you’ll want all five of these items on your shelf. You know…the stuff big boys use.

1. Razor: The most important piece to your collection – your weapon of choice. Which should you choose? It all depends on the man, their skin, and what they’re looking for in a shave. For the sake of simplicity, there are four varieties:

• Straight razor – Also known as cut-throat razors, these require considerable skill to master. Collectors often trade these antiques. There’s only one reason to use straight razors today…to serve as a reminder that you’re alive! If you’re into that sort of thing, have at it.
• Single-blade safety razor – Safety razors came into existence as the “solution” to the possibility of being seriously injured with a straight razor. In fact, there’s a strong culture based around these “sophisticated” tools. Communities of shaving gurus insist that these razors deliver the absolute best shave a man can get.

After giving the Merkur a fair shot and using one for 3 months, I have to report mixed feelings. They have their advantages. Indeed, I did get an impressively close shave. Yet, the end result was disappointing – redness, irritation, and skin so bare, people might question my state of puberty. However, the safety razor does dominate in some aspects – specifically, the elimination of razor bumps on the neck and the ability to handle even the most dangerous curves. The Merkur experience does have its benefits. You’ll be forced to learn technique, and pay attention to the small things that matter (i.e. multiple directions of beard growth on different areas of your neck).

• Multi-blade pivot head razor – This is the typical razor you’d expect to find in the average man’s home. Gillette Fusion happens to be my favorite (new Gillette Fusion ProGlide coming soon). It’s hard to beat the performance and ease-of-use that these razors deliver. Unfortunately, they’re so easy to use, many men don’t bother to learn how to shave properly. Multi-blade razors may not cut quite as close as the safety razors, but the difference is minute.
• Electric razor – It’s hard to “rate” an electric razor, since there are so many models that perform very differently. The advantage is that you don’t need any additional supplies, such as shaving cream or water. However, cleaning and recharging make maintenance of the actual razor very burdensome. Typically, you’ll need to shave more often with an electric razor, as most models don’t get as close as manual shaving. You’ll also need to get used to using them, as you’re likely to experience significant irritation with your first few shaves. Note: The remainder of this article focuses on wet shaving.

2. Pre-Shave Oil: Very few people use have even heard of pre-shave oil. That’s a shame, considering it works wonders. Pre-shave oil softens the beard more than shaving cream alone and works to lubricate the razor. The result? Reduced friction – and less pain.

3. Shaving Cream: Shaving creams from Walmart work. Trumper’s Violet Shaving Cream works better; I just find it hard to recommend a shaving cream that costs $30. But know that there is usually a noticeable difference between a quality cream, and something you might find at your local drugstore. Rather than take my word for it (everyone has a different opinion), check out these shaving cream reviews. You should be able to find something you enjoy for around $10.

4. Brush: If you’re like 99% of men, you use your hands to apply the shaving cream. Like 99% of men, you’re missing out. Get yourself a badger hair brush, and you’ll wonder how you’ve went so long without one. A brush not only creates a rich lather, but also lifts the beard from the face.

5. After-Shave Balm: If you’re not using some form of an after-shave, you need to be. Don’t use just any moisturizer sitting around the house, since many of them have fragrances or other ingredients that will irritate the skin. You also want to avoid products with alcohol in them.

8 Step Technique

While gear is a start, you’re going to need good technique if you want a flawless shave. Here are 8 simple steps to guide you:

1. Cleanse: Start with cleaning your hands and face with a gentle cleanser. This is recommended to help prevent infections. I personally prefer Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser.

2. Soak: Warm water helps to soften the beard and open pores. Your goal here is to make sure every pore is permeated. When you think you’ve splashed enough water on your skin, splash some more. If you have a fog-proof mirror, shaving in the shower is most convenient. Otherwise, placing a wet wash cloth over your face (and neck) works well too. Leave the cloth on for a minute or so.

3. Condition: Apply a small amount of pre-shave oil to the skin and lightly massage it into the entire beard. Add some water in the process to help spread the oil.

4. Lather: Add a dollop of shaving cream, along with a few drops of water, to a wide coffee mug. Use your badger hair brush to whip the cream (while adding water if necessary). Continue this process until you have a thick creamy lather. Proceed to lather the cream into your beard with the brush.

5. Shave: Here’s where you’re going to want to slow it down a bit. Take your time and pay attention to what you’re doing.

• Make sure the blade isn’t dull. Generally, you don’t want to shave more than 3-5 times with the same blade.
• Do your best to minimize strokes. Use long single strokes, rather than multiple short strokes.
• Pay attention to the direction in which your beard grows. Many men have to shave at different angles depending on the area (especially the neck). You always want to shave with the grain the first time around. If you’re looking for a closer shave, reapply shaving cream and then shave against (or across) the grain. If you’ve never attempted to shave against the grain, it’s best to wait for a day that you don’t have anything else planned. Your skin may be too sensitive for a dual shave, leaving your face looking like Wolverine’s artwork.
• If you’re having trouble getting to the hair on the curves of your jaw line, carefully pull and tighten the skin for an even stroke.
• Continue to add warm water to the area being shaved. Thin out the shaving cream on your face with water as you approach each section of the beard. Your razor will glide easier over a thin layer of shaving cream.
• Rinse the razor after each stroke. You’re aiming for efficiency and you won’t get that by shaving with blades that are clogged with hair.
• If you’ve missed a spot, reapply shaving cream and warm water before going over the area again.

6. Rinse: Use warm water to wash off any remaining cream and/or oil.

7. Dry: Use a soft towel to pat (not rub) your face dry. Dragging a towel across your (already sensitive) skin will only irritate it further.

8. Moisturize: Applying a moisturizer (after-shave) will dramatically improve the healing process.

There you have it: the art of shaving. Go ahead, give it a try. Your face will thank you. Women will want more of you. Co-workers will bow down to you.

And of course we’re giving away this free starter kit (seen above) to one lucky person who leaves a comment below (by  March 10th). Let us know what you’re using to shave. Any additional tips you’d like to add?

Want More? Check out Mantic59 on YouTube. Here’s one of his videos: