How to Wear a Suit (Like You Mean It)

It’s one of those things that you think you know, like who’s going to the playoffs or what she’s really thinking, but in all honesty you simply don’t. That’s okay, because the antiques walking around in department stores selling them to you don’t know either. So, learn from the ones who did it right like Sinatra, Bogart, and Cary Grant, because when has anyone ever looked at a photo of one of these men and thought, “tacky”? That’s right – never.

The One

Don’t compromise. Who you’re marrying and what you’re wearing are decisions you just don’t rush…or shouldn’t, anyway. Find the suit that suits you. Hankering for the 007 appeal? Pick a simple, slim black suit and wear it like it’s a color no one has seen before. If you’re more of a classic guy, settle on a medium shade of gray. Take the 1950s with you wherever you go because back then, guys knew how to dress. And if you’re destined to create history instead of repeat it, go with navy or rich brown. It’s modern, it’s underground and it’s different in all the right ways.

The Fit

Number one problem with the way men wear clothes is they wear them too big. Swimming is to be done in water, not fabric. In regard to that box with lapels hanging in your closet – here’s how it should fit:

• Flat against your shoulders, not beyond them.
• Hugging your torso, not billowing out like a theater curtain.
• Sleeves should stop at your wrist bones. If they’re below any of your knuckles, then we have a problem.
• Cuffs and Socks are things you shouldn’t be concealing, but showing off.

The Right Stuff

Here’s where you make it your own with a shirt, tie (or no tie) and pocket silk. Women have a practically unlimited amount of options for their wardrobe – we don’t. We have details. Embrace them and learn how to distinguish yourself from the rest of the pack. Showcase that you pay attention and you’ll get attention.

For starters, don’t underestimate the basic white shirt. It’s timeless and it always looks good with everything. Get several. Light blue is also a staple of the business wardrobe and won’t steer you wrong. Softer shades, like lavender and pink, compliment gray suits, while black can go a little bolder in its palette. Top whatever you select with a shot of white in the breast pocket in the form of a pocket silk.

With Confidence…

…which is really how you should wear everything, but suits in particular. Don’t be afraid to forgo the tie and leave those top two shirt buttons undone. It’s very Italian and if you pretend to know the difference between a Cabernet Franc and a Cabernet Sauvignon, you’re golden. Mix up the jacket with a pair of dark wash jeans or invest in a wool v-neck sweater to pair with the slacks. You paid a lot of money for the suit so make the most of it.

Luckily, if you ever find yourself overwhelmed by the immense amount of detailed decisions concerning that classy two-button business uniform, you can always look to the greats, like Sinatra, to guide you and unlike suit salesmen, Sinatra knew what he was doing.